Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
